Ten Things You Need to Know About Your Hair…

Even celebrities like Nicole Kidman have fast-growing gray roots.

1. A lot of people wonder why they start seeing roots around their hairline, especially those who are covering their gray, the week after they get their hair colored. It isn’t that the color didn’t “take.” It’s that the hairline grows faster that the rest of the hair on the head, because it is really facial hair. If you think about a man’s beard, and how he only has to stop shaving for a day and you can see growth, then you begin to realize why your roots show so quickly around your hairline. Also, remember that your hair grows at least ½ inch a month, sometimes faster during the summertime!  

2. A question I am asked about constantly is hair falling out, when my clients are “seeing a lot of hair on the floor.” 

Stress, medications, and even pregnancy can add to hair loss.

The truth is that your hair is always falling out at a rate of about 50 to 100 strands per day. And if you have long or curly hair, it will seem like even more because of the volume of the individual hairs.  So, just accept the facts that those 50 to 100 strands every day is perfectly normal, and remember that they’re being replaced and growing back. On another note, stress, medical problems, going through difficult emotional times like a divorce, certain medications, and even pregnancy can add to hair loss – but with the right treatments, that abnormal hair loss can be stopped and it will grow back.

Lather, rinse...and stop

3. You should know that the directions to suds up twice when you shampoo were written back in the days when women only washed their hair once a week and sprayed their hair heavily every day. Under those circumstances, you really did need to shampoo hair twice to get it clean. But today, most people wash their hair daily or every other day, and in that case, lathering up once is enough. Remember that hair is a fabric, and the more you wash it, the more it wears out. So, if you wash your hair every day you only need to lather once, but always remember to condition.

Aquage

4. Another question about shampooing I get is whether people need to switch shampoos occasionally because hair gets used to it. As a professional colorist, my recommendation is that you make sure that whatever colorist does your hair recommends the right shampoo and that you use it. If you experience product build-up, which is not uncommon, you should use a clarifying shampoo once in a while – no more than every 4^th or 5^th time your shampoo, and then you should condition well, and go back to your regular shampoo. The most important thing today, since most people shampoo so often, is to use a shampoo that is sulfate-free with UVA/UVB sunscreen protection, and Thermal V-Complex that seals in your color and prevents thermal styling damage. One of the companies that makes a superior line of products that meet these requirements is Aquage and its SeaExtend line.   

Brrr....but it works

5. Clients often ask for a cold-water rinse to make their hair shiny. Just like heat opens the pores of the skin and cold water will tighten them, so will hot water open the hair’s cuticle and cold water close the cuticle. Rinsing with cold water will cause that closed cuticle to reflect more light and make the hair look better.

Haircolor done right doesn't damage

6. I am often asked, as a Master Colorist, whether coloring the hair damages it. Like everything else, you can get damage if it is done the wrong way; in the hands of a professional with training and knowledge you can get beautiful and healthy results. And part of those healthy results is what you do after you leave the salon. If you like to shampoo every day, your color will fade more quickly, and you’ll need protective shampoo and conditioner, and special products for home maintenance to keep your hair healthy and your color vibrant and true.

The only sure cure for split ends

7. Here’s one that’s coming up a lot lately due to advertising for new drugstore products that focus on split ends – can you actually repair split ends? I always tell people that hair, as it grows longer, is like a rope and once it starts unwinding, the best thing to do is cut it off. There is no conditioner or product that is going to stop it or repair it. But proper trimming will help you get ahead of split ends, and healthier, stronger hair will be able to grow longer over time.

Hot rollers work wonders on fine hair

8. There are a lot of “fine” women who come into my salon – and by that, I mean women with finely textured hair. Their chief complaint is always that their hair is flat and they cannot get any body into their hair. There is an art to cutting fine hair in order to achieve the proper texture that will support its length. If it’s too long, it collapses the texture and makes fine hair look even thinner and flatter. I also find that coloring and highlighting fine hair will add texture and body. Using the proper products like volumizing shampoo and conditioner, and amplifying and body-boosting styling products like light whips, uplifting foams and thermal sprays help. To give more volume and bounce to fine hair, set it for five minutes in hot rollers, then hit it with a light finishing spray, and voila! Big, bouncing volume.

Product, product, product

9. Everyone wants to know, “Why doesn’t my hair look the same when I do it at home than when my stylist does it? What am I doing wrong?” The answer is “Product, product, product.” Stylists use products according to your style and you hair type, and then utilizes the right professional tools, the best brush, the hottest dryers, curling irons and flat irons; but unfortunately may stylists are lousy at prescribing the right products for their clients to take home. So, they go off to the drugstore or the supermarket and buy the wrong thing for their hair – it’s too heavy or too strong or not strong enough for their hair – and it doesn’t work. I strongly suggest that before you leave the salon, you ask your stylist what was used to wash and condition your hair, what was used to style and finish your hair, and take home whatever you can afford so you can come as close as you can to the same results.

The consultation is priority #1

10. This last thing you should know should be the first thing that you do – the consultation. Make it the #1 priority when you book an appointment. At D Laudati Salon, the consultation is our most important meeting. It’s just like taking a trip – you want to start at the beginning, know where it is you want to go, find out how you are going to get there, and how much it is going to cost not just to get there, but to stay there. You stylist should tell you about payment, and about how much it will cost you to maintain the look you want, how long it will last, and how often you’ll need to come in. At D Laudati, we always offer a complimentary consultation so we understand what you like and what you don’t, we look at pictures, we visualize the target and goal and color, and then I give my point of view on what color I believe will look good with your skin tones, what cut will work with your hair’s texture. I take into consideration things like whether you’re a working professional who does not have a lot of time to fuss with your hair in the mornings nor the time for lengthy and frequent visits to the salon. I want to know all of this before the scissors ever touch the hair. We must get to know each other before we start this very personal relationship!

Until next week, ciao…  

The Top 10 Reasons NOT to Color Your Hair at Home

As a Board-Certified Master Haircolorist, I'm the one women call when they have a haircolor disaster that their regular stylist cannot fix. More often than not, the reason for the disaster is an ill-advised attempt at coloring their hair themselves at home, or allowing a friend to color it for them.

That's a video uploaded to YouTube titled "At Home Haircolor Horrors." It's been viewed over 32,000 times since it was posted just 10 days ago. 

haircolor disaster, orange & brown #1

When a home-haircolor victim arrives in my ER, not only does the color need correcting, but there is usually considerable damage to her hair. As the recession drags on, I'm seeing more of these victims than ever, but the lesson here is this:

haircolor disaster, orange & brown #2

Home hair color does not save money. In fact, it ends up being the most expensive haircolor one can have, because it inevitably necessitates a series of salon visits to correct the color and condition and reconstruct the hair.

Here's what some of my colleagues have to say on the matter:

haircolor disaster, brassy #1

“You wouldn't do your own dental work or give yourself a tattoo, so why would you think it's okay to do your own hair color?” John C. Simpson of Lewis Salon, Pittsburgh, PA

haircolor disaster, brassy #2

“You will end up spending so much more than just what you paid for that "box" color --you will easily spend ten times more to have it corrected by a professional.” Jesse Marcks of Hair Excellence, Sun Prairie, WI

“Don't believe what you see on TV; celebrities don't get color from a box. The majority of corrective color we do in the salon is correcting home haircolor disasters.” Tiffany Conway of CoCo Cheveux, Portland, ME

haircolor disaster, ashy & frizzy #1

“It's unpredictable! A professional colorist knows how to assess the other factors – starting level, grey coverage, texture, etc. It's like an address with no directions; how can you get to a destination if you don't know where you're starting?” Deborah Gavin of Fresh Studio, Philadelphia, PA

haircolor disaster, ashy & frizzy #2

“People think nothing of spending money on clothing or accessories they rarely wear; why wouldn't you put your hair as a priority as you wear it every day?” Marie Ferro of Marie's Hair Studio, Malibu, CA
“You can't talk to a box but you can talk to a professional. Where else do you get advice and beauty at one place and for one price?” Rona O’Connor of Lukaro, Beverly Hills, CA

haircolor disaster, oversaturated ends

“Too often, color done at home can jeopardize the integrity of your hair, leaving it dry and with an undesired end result ... and besides that ... who doesn't love a little attention from their hairdresser?” Jeff Taylor of Jenniffer & Co. Salon & Spa South, Mentor, OR

“With a creative eye, knowledge, and experience, a professional can create consistent and brilliant color results. A box bas no eye, no knowledge, and no experience; it's a dump-and-hope approach.” James Edick of ARROJO, NYC

haircolor disaster, damaged ends

“Overlapping applications create damage and lackluster hair. A professional colorist knows how to apply so the end result is always even and can create signature looks to suit the individual.” Rebecca Heile of Fresh Studio, Philadelphia, PA

So, if the thought of buying a box of haircolor at the drugstore or supermarket ever crosses your mind, remember that the actress or model whose gorgeous, healthy, shiny, multi-dimensional hair graces the front of the paid hundreds of dollars to one of the country’s top colorists to get that look; she didn’t get it from a box.

Until next week, ciao…

2011 Hair Trends: Color, Braids, Bangs, Bobs, and Bling!

Candy-Colored Hair: Dianna, Katy and Kate

As 2011 comes to a close, we take a look back at some of the most popular hair trends, and the celebrities who sported them for all the world to see. While the rest of us went quietly about our lives with the same cuts and colors, we didn’t have to dodge the paparazzi, and for that we can all be thankful!

  

Candy-Colored Hair: Or, if we’re honest about most of what we saw, we’ll just call it Kool Aid-colored hair instead! On the whole, it simply was NOT appealing, as proven by Dianna Agron and Kate Bosworth, who both looked as if they waited until their parents weren’t home and dip-dyed their hair in Kool Aid. It just doesn’t look appealing. If you want to do something like this, you need a professional, not a home dye job. Look at the difference between Katy Perry and the other two. She may be wearing a funky haircolor, but it looks professionally done, healthy, and well-colored. Check out our blog post from November 10, “Bobbing for Color.” THAT’S what playing around with funky colors should look like!

Temporarily Red: Blake, Drew, and Scarlett

Seeing Red: This year, we saw requests to “go red” surpass those to “become a blonde.” It’s a tough, demanding haircolor, but if you’re thinking about becoming a redhead, now is most definitely the time. But it cannot be stressed enough that a change like this really must be done professionally. There are so many shades of red -- cool reds, hot reds, warm reds, red-reds, which you can see just by looking at Blake Lively, Drew Barrymore and Scarlett Johansson – that you need an expert to choose the right shade for your skin tone. And because red haircolor is most prone to fading, a professional will do a “double dip” to make your new color last longer, as well as recommend the best products to extend the life of your new red-hot look. 

On Top: Gwen, Reese, and Jennifer

Topknots: It is refreshing to see a clean, classical look like the ballerina topknot come back into style, but with a bit of a twist on each celebrity’s version. We especially liked Gwen Stefani’s, with that edge of messiness to soften its perfection. Those strands falling around her face are sexy, just like she is, and just go to show how really casual and do-able the topknot actually is. Reese Witherspoon’s is very neat and the most formal, and Jennifer Lopez’s has just a little bit of imperfection, and they all work perfectly. 

Let's Be Blunt: Rose, Nicole, and Sandra

Blunt Bangs: Blunt bangs can be a very attractive and dramatic (think of Anjelica Huston or early Cher) signature look, but you have to really want them and prepared to live with them, for they can also be very severe. In earlier blog posts, we commented that we didn’t like them at all on Rose Byrne, whose delicate face was overpowered by such a heavy fringe. When Sandra Bullock surprised celebrity watchers by showing up with them at an awards show earlier in the year, opinions were mixed, but she has much stronger featured and a longer face to balance them out. Nicole Ritchie wears them most successfully here, because hers are not really as blunt. They’re cut at a graduated angle, have some wispiness to them, and don’t overpower her face.

Braided Ladies: Shakira, Nina, and Stacy

Braids: Braids are back in, but they’re not as neat and clean – like Nina Dobrev’s or Stacy Keibler’s – today as they were in earlier trends. Even Shakira’s is rather neat. Lately it’s fishtail braids and messy, homemade-looking braids that were all over the runways this year. The irony is that there is a method to making a good, casually controlled, slightly messy braid, and it takes a hairstylist to do it.

Ladies Who Lob: Julianne, Emily, and Brooklyn

Long Bobs: May we refer you our December 16 blog post, “Which Lob Do You Love?” Both Emily Blunt and Brooklyn Decker were featured, and Julianne Hough was cut for space, but not for her great cut.

Hair “Bling”: Hair jewelry, hair accessories, and then there’s always the fascinators! These jeweled hair accessories are a way to add glamour to a look without resorting to the usual necklace/earrings pairing. 

Hair Jewels: Kate, Jessica, and Emma

In fact, you’ll notice that Kate Hudson, Jessica Alba, and Emma Stone have all foregone necklaces, and if they are wearing earrings, they are small or very delicate. In the case of Kate and Jessica, both pregnant at the time, it allowed them to spotlight a glowing décolleté in a strapless gown. In spite of the jewels involved, all of this “hair bling” has a slightly Bohemian feeling that juxtaposes beautifully with their formal gowns.

It has been a wonderful year in fashion and beauty (mostly good, and some trends we hope will expire at midnight on December 31^st), and we expect nothing less for 2012! Have a safe and happy New Year, and we’ll be back next week. Until then, ciao!

Don’t Let the Recession Get You Hair Down; There are Some Easy At-Home Bailouts

According to an article in Elle, “After polling 600 mid- to high-range salons nationwide, the National Cosmetology Association found that more than 70 percent reported seeing a drop-off in customer spending.” Of course, I want my clients to be able to see me for regularly scheduled touch-ups and trims, but the reality is there are some things you can do at home to stretch out those visits a bit. One caveat: unless you’re coloring your hair within a shade of two of your natural color, you must see a professional. As a Master Colorist. I have had to correct some truly frightening home jobs.

But you can do the little things, like trim your own bangs, or have your long hair cut with interior layers that you can style to create volume and wait much longer between visits. We offer our clients free bang trims, but many feel uncomfortable coming in for a free service when it’s been a long time between visits. This article has a couple of good videos showing a terrific long style and a tutorial on trimming your bangs. Soon, things will take a turn for the better, and you can get back to your regular love affair with your stylist.