Billboard Beauties

A very grown-up Miley Cyrus

Last weekend’s 2012 Billboard Music Awards brought out the music industry’s biggest stars in surprisingly elegant outfits; there wasn’t anything rock-and-roll about this red carpet -- designer gowns were the look of the night, although Miley Cyrus’s white Gaultier tuxedo-style mini  was variously described as “pants-less,” “missing the bottom half,” and “highly risqué.”

We see London, we see France...

Yet the same fashion/beauty columnists were unanimous in their praise for Miley’s fabulous hair and makeup. Loaded with tousled volume reminiscent of the early Seventies, yet looking thoroughly modern, Miley was sporting a shoulder-grazing crop and new color that transitions from deep caramel to paler honey. The lightly teased crown is what gives this look its retro flair while the soft texture keeps it from looking dated. The look is very soft and sexy, and her makeup is as well, especially her soft pink lip color. Someone’s new stylist really knows what he or she is doing – every detail works, from the jewelry to her striped Louboutins! Miley’s come a very long way, and this is the best she’s ever looked.   

Alicia Keys braided crown

Braids continue to be a major hair trend, and Alicia Keys’s single-braid crown is a perfect example of how even someone with hair too short to braid can make the most of this trend. By pulling back the hair and attaching a hairpiece, you can create a design on the head and many different braid effects, from Alicia’s very structured look, which complements her demure-yet-sexy Azzedine Alaia Couture gown, to the more unstructured, “controlled mess” braids like fishtails, and other beautifully uncontrolled looks we’ve been seeing on the runways for the past few seasons.

Brandy's "pyramid" cut

R&B singer Brandy, who some beauty editors characterized as channeling a “Tina Turner vibe,” looked smashing with her voluminous natural curls and Herve Leger for Max Azria bandage dress. I’ll tell you a stylist’s secret – the most beautiful hair looks are those that are, no matter what the style, cut in a triangular or pyramid shape. It softens the features and makes the eyes the focal point of the face. Even if the triangular shape is very soft or it’s just the illusion of the pyramid within the cut that only a trained stylist would notice, it works every time. Brandy makes the most of the shape of her hair by further playing up her eyes with an intensely blue smoky look, and balanced that with the perfect nude glossy lip. You know the rule…

Carly Rae Jepsen

Carly Rae Jepsen certainly does. She pairs her intensely red matte lipstick with soft eye makeup. With her heavy fringe of blunt bangs bringing plenty of attention to her eyes and helping to soften her long features, the whole look is a good one for the young lady with one of the most popular songs in the country right now (“Call Me Maybe”).

Carrie Underwood

I can’t quite put my finger on it, but something is missing from Carrie Underwood’s look. I kept returning to her pictures, and all I could see was eyes and teeth and dark roots. The rest of her face is very washed out. I think that had she used a touch of blush in a slightly pink tone to break up the monotony, that little pop of color on her cheekbones would have done the trick. 

The fluffy gown

Carrie speaks openly about how she does her own makeup, and I often remind my clients that after they are done applying their makeup in those magnifying mirrors, they need to stand back five feet from the regular mirror and take a look at themselves, and then move to 10 feet back. 

The performance gown

It’s the only way to get an idea of how OTHER people will see you. Frequently, that perspective of distance will cause you to make some adjustments. I think Carrie would have benefitted from that advice. And the Oscar de la Renta dress was just too fluffy and overwhelming; her performance gown and makeup were much, much better.  

Natasha's seafoam gown

The opposite happened with Natasha Bedingfield. There are pictures of her in two different gowns: a beautiful sheer seafoam/turquoise shade covered with crystals and sequins, and a partially sheer sexy black with a thigh-high slit. 

Natasha's black gown

Yet she did not alter her makeup or hair, and while it looked fine with the black number, it looked too hard yet too casual with the seafoam gown. I would have given her a more finished look to go with the more embellished and formal gown, defined the curls more, and changed the color of her lipstick from the warm orangey-coral to something cooler and more delicate. It’s not that her hair and makeup were bad – they just weren’t right for both outfits. 

Chrissy Tiegen

John Legend’s fiancée, model Chrissy Tiegen, looked lovely in her long peek-a-boo bangs and high ponytail over a short strapless couture cocktail dress with a very on-trend peplum. Not everyone can pull off this look; but her makeup is pretty and she has a killer smile, and you can get away with a lot with that very winning combination.

Jordin Sparks' sexy figure

Jordin Sparks, who performed “I Will Always Love You” during the tribute to Whitney Houston, has certainly grown up since she won her season of “American Idol.” She’s lost quite a bit of weight, and her form-fitting, lace Diane von Furstenberg mini-dress really shows it off. I would have given her side-pony a side part to give her a bit more softness, and then played up her eyes more rather than her lips. 

Jordin up close

But, often this is a matter of personal preference and not something a makeup artist foisted upon a celebrity. Jordin may think her lips are her best feature, and now that she’s old enough and famous enough to assert her own will, advice that runs counter to what she feels will be ignored. Or, she took the advice of a makeup artist who made the decision for her, and I simply disagree.  

Julianne Hough

Julianne Hough looks tiny and pretty and elegant in her silver Kaufman Franco sequined dress and golden Nicholas Kirkwood shoes. Her deeply side-parted hair, with its retro wave swept over one shoulder, is a classic Old Hollywood look we see repeated on the red carpet over and over – because it is a soft, flattering look that anyone can wear. 

Julianne’s makeup is also soft, elegant and pretty, with no hard edges, making it a total package. I like this much better than her look at the Met Costume Gala just a few weeks ago.

Katy Perry, elegant goth

The color-crazy Katy Perry manages to pull off every outrageous look she tries through the sheer force of her personality. I’ve noticed that this latest haircolor, which her colorist described as “Purple Velvet,” has inspired Katy to dial back the crazy makeup colors (she was often matching her blue hair to her eyeshadow, then throwing on a hot pink lipstick), opting to follow the runway trend of the “vampy” lip color revival but leaving the eye makeup very soft. Katy proves you can look elegant without looking freakish when you go with these strong colors by sculpting the makeup, and choosing subtle or delicate clothes and jewelry (another thing Katy never did before). Even so, the look is an attention-getter, especially on such a pretty girl. At least she doesn’t have tattoos and piercings as well; that would just be too much.

Kerli, the anti-Katy Perry

The opposite of Katy Perry would be Estonian performer Kerli. I’ve seen messy outfits that look sexy, but this is more along the lines of someone standing on the corner in that certain part of town yelling out at passing cars, “Looking for a good time, honey?” 

Kerli, the full monty

Starting at the top with the crazy hair (the pastel trend never looked so…dirty), it just gets crazier as your eye moves downward to the garters, the tights, and those terrible, terrible shoes. If Katy Perry is looking for attention, what exactly is Kerli looking for?  What would you say if you saw her on the street looking like this? I thought so.

Lisa Marie Presley

I am amazed every time I see Lisa Marie Presley. She is a very private person, so we don’t see her very often. I am always taken aback by how much she looks like her father – her face is just as arresting as his once was, and the resemblance grows more pronounced as she grows older. Lisa Marie looks even better in her Forties than she did in her Twenties, in my opinion; I think she needed to grow into her looks and find her own identity. 

Lisa Marie and husband

She’s not conventionally pretty (which is so much more interesting anyway) – and she never seems to really smile. But there is no denying she is charismatic and has that star quality some people are simply born with. You can’t help but stare at her. Her hair color is flattering (no more dying it dark to play up the Elvis look), the cut perfect for her face, her makeup subtle and expertly designed to bring out the green in her hazel eyes. It all fits well together, and her outfit is decidedly low-key – her husband was much more flamboyantly dressed than she. This is real rock royalty.

Taylor Swift

I love how Taylor Swift changed it up with this fabulous Elie Saab illusion lace gown in crimson – at first you think you’re seeing much more of this country crossover star than you ever thought possible, then you realize you aren’t and, in fact, the gown is fairly covered up. But it breaks the mold for Taylor, and that’s always a great thing to see. 

I’m showing you this particular close-up to illustrate a point about how important photo composition, shot selection, and the proper use of Photoshop can be. This image was released to the world by Getty, the largest global photo bank. 

The unfortunate shot

And I want you to take a look at the lovely Taylor’s left underarm. With the number of images these photographers snap off at a tenth of a second each, I find it astounding that Getty chose to release this image with that unfortunately placed lock of Taylor’s hair. I have seen plenty of other images from that night, taken from the same angle, but after Taylor had obviously moved a bit and adjusted her hair, so there is no excuse for releasing an image into their photobank that looks as if she has underarm hair that is long enough to braid. If nothing else, this is why photographers legitimately retouch images in Photoshop. And anyone could have run up, adjusted her hair, or one of the photographers could have shouted at Taylor to shake her hair out (since when have photographers been reticent about shouting at celebrities to get their attention??). Anyway, even with the underarm lock, Taylor looks stunning with her slightly shorter and choppier bangs in a more silvery ash tone than she’s been wearing. Rather than her signature red lips and soft eyes, she’s gone for a metallic copper smoky eye and nude lip with pink undertones that wouldn’t fight with her dress. I think Taylor passed a milestone with this outfit, and we’ll be seeing a more sophisticated look on her from now on.

Zooey Deschanel

Finally, we have another retro/modern hairstyle, this time on a singer/actress famous for her retro/modern sensibility, Zooey Deschanel. In her Sixties-style silver sequined Moschino dress (very Edie Sedgwick), opaque black Beatnik tights, and black Miu Miu pumps, her signature shiny, heavy bangs  and back-combed crown reveal a surprisingly undone up-do – one that looks like it could easily be reproduced at home. It’s another “controlled mess” that’s sexy and looks good on most any woman. And I love her orange lipstick. It’s a color that scares a lot of women, but on Zooey it works beautifully because of its slightly sheer satin texture, the fact that the rest of her makeup is very soft, and the orange on her lip acts like the orange of the sunrise to make the sky blue of her eyes seem even more intense.  

Until next week, ciao…
Dino Laudati

A Tribute to a Legend, and Farewell to a Generous Friend

Vidal Sassoon, at the NYC premiere of "Vidal Sassoon The Movie:
How One Man Changed the World With a Pair of Scissors  

Millions and millions of people come and go in our world, but only a few leave a permanent footprint, their name etched into our collective history.

Cutting Mary Quant's hair, 1964

Those few share one unique achievement: They are able to take the impossible and make it possible, thereby changing the world for the better. Some were leaders, some musicians, some great artists; some scientists, poets, heroes, or athletes. 

On the set of "Rosemary's Baby" 1968

Mozart touched us with his musical compositions; DaVinci did it with pigments and brushstrokes, with his theories, and great inventions. Poets used words, heroes gave lives -- and Vidal Sassoon used scissors to change the hairdressing world, along with the entire beauty industry, and irrevocably changed the way women live their lives.

Five-Point Cut, 1964

He liberated women from weekly trips to the salon for a “wash and set,” offering them the freedom to care for their own hair. Vidal encouraged an entire generation to forego the rollers, forget the fussy bouffant, and forge their own relationship with the blowdryer and modern, short hair. 

The Kwan Bob, 1968

Vidal’s unique geometric shapes (The Five Point Cut, The Kwan Bob, The Greek Goddess, The Butterfly) and clean approach to cutting transformed the entire industry’s approach to hair care. 

The Greek Goddess

While stylists initially worried that the Vidal Sassoon approach would have a huge negative impact on their income and destroy the industry, he ultimately inspired cutters to work with and maximize a woman’s natural hair texture and movement.

Grace Coddington

Danae Brook

It took one man to revolutionize hair styling as we know it today. As a colleague and fellow member of Intercoiffure, I’ve had the pleasure of being with Vidal Sassoon several times.

I’ve watched him perform, and I feel privileged to have had that opportunity. I’m very thankful for having been able to learn his skills and techniques, and I’ve become a better stylist and skilled hair cutter because of it.

Vidal and Carol Channing

I especially like Vidal’s slogan, “If you don’t look good, we don’t look good.” Like many who met him, along with all who knew and loved him, I will always remember Vidal Sassoon as the icon who changed haircutting from what it was into architecture and art.

Vidal and Joan Collins

He wrote in his memoir, “The hair must suit the bone structure, and also the clients’ figure. I dream of hair as an art form, giving the lead to other art forms.”

Vidal in 2010 at a book signing in London

I wish you farewell, my friend. Although your physical body is gone, your footprint will remain here forever. 

Vidal and Mary Quant on the movie set, 2011

You made me realize the finished look is the reflection of my work; you helped me be a better artist.

This Spring and Summer, There’s Something for Everyone!

Rihanna goes back to black...

If you’re feeling bored with your cut or color, now is the time to consider a change. Spring is always a time of renewal, when we think about spring cleaning, changing up rich fall and winter colors for lighter, brighter spring and summer colors, going shorter, going lighter, adding highlights, cutting bangs. It’s a transformative time of year, and there is no one trend that dominates. For every Emma Stone who decides to go blonde again, there’s Rihanna who decides to go back to black.

But with that said, here are some of the looks we’re seeing repeated over and over in the magazines, on the style blogs, and on celebrities…

Krysten Ritter's baby bangs

BANGS: Baby bangs, blunt bangs, soft and wispy bangs. Whatever your bang, it’s one of the easiest ways to make a major style change yet still maintain the length of your hair, which so many women are loathe to let go of completely.

Actress Krysten Ritter has some of the most flattering baby bangs we’ve seen – they’re edgy, a little rock-and-roll, very urban, and a bit retro, too, especially paired with her black hair. 

Baby bangs at Versace

The trick with very short bangs is to be sure they don’t look as if you cut them yourself – or worse, that a three-year-old cut them while you napped, like the model from the Versace Fall 2012 runway.  This is when you want to consult your stylist and get a professional opinion about whether they’re the most flattering bang for your face, and then have them cut professionally to be sure they avoid the dreaded “kindergarten” look.

Blunt bangs at Marni

Blunt bangs are another style that isn’t the easiest to pull off – the heavy geometric quality isn’t flattering to every face shape, and they can be severe. They also tend to grow out very quickly, and are not easy to maintain yourself, necessitating frequent trips to the salon. 

Blunt bangs at Elie Saab

You’ll notice that both examples of this look are from the Fall 2012 runways (Marni and Elie Saab) and not real life; they flatter a model’s more exaggerated bone structure. Again, this is where a stylist’s expertise comes in; if they’ll look fabulous on you, your stylist will tell you truthfully.

Nicole Richie's wispy bangs

By far the most flattering bangs are soft fringes, or wisps. Seen here on cuts, colors, and face shapes as diverse as Nicole Richie’s softly layered golden shag, Alexa Chung’s ombréd brunette bob, and Florence Welch’s flame-colored waves, they’re versatile and can be worn piece-y, pushed to the side, or down. 

Alexa Chung's piece-y fringe

Florence Welch's soft fringes

It’s hard to go wrong with this style of bang, and they accentuate the eyes and well-shaped brows, hide a high forehead, bring balance to a disproportionate face, and are a great way to cover an aging forehead.     

January Jones' graduated bob

Emily Blunt's graduated bob

BOBS: The bob is one way to still feel like you have length while losing a lot of the weight from your hair, often freeing up more texture, trimming away damaged ends, and depending on whether it’s a “lob”, a graduated bob like those of January Jones and Emily Blunt, an asymmetrical bob like Ali Larter’s, or a cropped and sideswept bob like Cameron Diaz’s, it’s a cut with a lot of vitality and movement that offers plenty of styling options.

Ali Larter's asymmetrical bob

Cameron Diaz's cropped bob

Exposing the neck is a very elegant look, it creates height, and it is also cooler as the weather gets warmer and more humid. 

PIXIES: Actresses Michelle Williams and Ginnifer Goodwin have single-handedly made the pixie a go-to haircut again. 

Michelle Williams

Ginnifer Goodwin

More and more women are coming into my salon requesting truly short hair, and even more surprising is that they are maintaining it, not trying the style out and starting to grow it in immediately. 

Ruby Rose

Here’s Ruby Rose with another variation on the pixie, a bit more edgy than either Michelle or Ginnifer. The other advantage to these pixie cuts is that you can experiment with color and risk minimal damage since the hair is so short and grows out quickly.

Ashlee Simpson

RAZORED CROPS: Razor cutting is back in vogue, and it is being applied to cropped styles as varied as those shown here on Ashlee Simpson, Morena Baccarin, and Jennie Garth. 

Morena Bacccarin

It creates tremendous texture and allows the hair to literally be pushed into a variety of styles, with minimal product. 

Jennie Garth

It’s another styling option for the hot months, yet it looks sophisticated and fashion forward, and never too innocent.

Allison Williams 

Christina Aguilera

LONG LAYERS: No matter the season, long hair never goes out of style. Women will brave heat and humidity without ever considering a shorter cut. 

But layered looks are definitely trending, which remove weight around the perimeter and often through the interior, creating texture and movement, and adding interest when the hair is styled into a casual or formal up-do. 

Lily Aldridge, layered ombre

Jessica Biel, darker and layered

The variety can be seen by looking at the pictures of NBC news anchor Brian William’s actress daughter Allison, Christina Aguilera, Victoria’s Secret model Lily Aldridge, and Jessica Biel. It all depends on you hair’s natural texture, density, and level of damage.

COLOR, COLOR EVERYWHERE: Color is a temping way to freshen and brighten up your look for the coming months, but it also means a commitment to taking extra care of your hair. 

Emma Stone, back to blonde

Jessica Chastain, a richer red

Whether you go blonde (Emma Stone – sorry to see her lose the red!), blonder (Cameron Diaz), redder (Jessica Chastain), darker (Jessica Biel), back to black (Rihanna – much improved!), or try color blocking (Miranda Lambert) or ombré (Lily Aldridge and Alexa Chung), you need to conserve the vitality and condition of your hair.

Miranda Lambert's ultra-flattering
color blocked blondes

The more you color, the more you condition. The more your hair is exposed to the summer heat and the elements, the more you condition. The more your hair is exposed to the chemical in the pool or the salt water at the beach, the more you need to condition. You’ll wash your hair more during the summer, and if you color your hair, it will fade faster. Glazes will help protect your color and keep your hair brighter and shinier for longer.

Even if your hair isn’t color-treated, switch over to a pH-balanced, sulfate-free shampoo, and ask your stylist for a recommendation on the right conditioner for your hair. And leave-in conditioners are wonderful for everyone to help protect your hair when you are outdoors enjoying the beautiful weather. Treat your hair well, keep it hydrated, rinse out the salt-and pool-water, deep condition it as often as your stylist recommends, and it will look healthy and beautiful all through the spring and summer.

    

Until next week, ciao…